The first four photos show the lift parts. I purchased the parts through Offroad Design, located in Colorado. They have a nice web site at Off Road Design. They appear to specialize in lifting full size trucks and I have been very satisfied with my many contacts with them during the lift project. The lift consists of new 4" front springs manufactured by Tuff Country and their SX8000 shocks. I purchased greasable bushings for the entire suspension and I also purchased Offroad's heavy duty front shackles. They are much beefier than the original shackles. I originally purchased a 4" drop steering arm, however, when it arrived it would not fit on my 69's closed knuckle axle. Consequently, I had to return that part and order a 4" drop drag link. (That part still needs to be installed.)
The rear suspension consists of new shocks and a shackle flip to obtain the lift. I choose the shackle flip because I wanted to retain my factory ride and weight rating of the springs. I could have gone with rear blocks, but since this is a truck that I use to haul hay with, I preferred to go with the strongest and safest lift in the rear. I could have also gone with new rear springs, however, they would have been stiffer than the stock springs and the would not have the 3/4 ton weight capacity. [If I had it to do over again, I may well have gone with new rear springs - I will explain further below.]
I may well have decided to go with new rear springs for the following reasons. First, the tires aren't centered in the wheel wells anymore. Not a problem for me because I'm going to be adding a flat bed in the future, but if I were staying with a bed it would probably bug me. It doesn't cause any tire rub with the 35's, however.
Secondly, I found out about 3/4 ways into the install that one of my leaf's was broken - but I have a friend who likely has a leaf that I can swap in. Thirdly, I went with the greasable bushings all around and the rear springs were very difficult to get the steel sleeve knocked out. I found the easiest way was with an air hammer chiseling away at the metal. By the time I got it perfected it was taking about 30 - 45 minutes per sleeve to knock out. The first one took more than two hours. With new springs I don't think there would have been the steel sleeve to worry about.
Why would I do the shackle flip again? I like the look - it looks nice and custom. I also like the fact that I was able to keep the spring rating for carrying loads. Its also much better looking than blocks. Probably never an issue but the shackle flip has to be safer than blocks.
There are various ways to remove the old shackle bracket. I found the easiest and fastest way is to first drill a number of increasingly larger holes in the center of each rivet and then use an air hammer to knock the heads off. Drilling the holes makes it go a lot faster. I started with a pretty small drill bit and then went up to about 3/8". Without drilling the holes I found my chisel wearing very fast and not getting anywhere.
Another tip, when you get ready to bolt the rear back together - first install the front of the rear spring then mount up the shackle bracket. I did the bracket first and couldn't work the front of the spring into its holder because of contact with the shackle bracket. It also helps to have a very large adjustable wrench that you can use to slightly spread the metal brackets that the springs are held in. At least with mine, I couldn't press the springs and new bushings back into the brackets without spreading the brackets a little.
The below photo shows the stock front suspension. When the vehicle is resting on its wheels the springs arch in a reverse arch.
Here are two photos of the old and new springs. The photos also show the heavy duty front shackles next to the old shackles. The greasable bushings were inexpensive and definitely a wise decision.
Here is a photo of the front springs installed, minus the shocks. When the vehicle weight is on the springs, the shackle is perpindicular to the ground. Note the brake lines are still disconnected. When I was removing the passenger side brake line my wrench slipped, resulting in a mangled brake line and fluid dripping all over the place. Wonder what that was? Only joking. A good friend brought his brake flare kit over and assisted in getting my brake problem fixed. I would still be scratching my head trying to figure out how to fix that, if it weren't for my buddy!
Note the position of the front drive shaft - seems it was a few inches short once I got the new springs installed. I took it to Power Drive in Wichita, KS and they were able to fix me up by lengthening my drive shaft. However, when I got home and started to install it, I found that the rear of the shaft contacts the yoke. Solution, I need a CV joint. Still waiting to hear how much that will cost. I'm still smiling though, you gotta expect suprises when you are working on a truck that is 30 years old!
Below are photos of the stock rear suspension. The second photo shows the front of the rear spring and the third photo shows the rear of the rear spring.
Next are photos of where the stock shackle was and with the new shackle installed.
Lastly, here are photos of the rear springs mounted. The second photo shows the new bracket and the third photo shows the front of the rear spring. The only modification to the rear was to get longer exhaust hangers installed. The rear brake line did not require any modification.
Finally, here are two photos of my truck with the lift substantially competed. I still need to install the dropped drag link to make it steer right. The tires are 35 x 12.50 x 16 Super Swamper SSR's on steel rims.
From what I know I would probably do the following: I would probably go 6" rather than 4" for the lift. I had to get my front drive shaft modified even with the 4" lift - which was one of the reasons I didn't go 6" - I didn't think that would need to be modified for a 4" lift. Not sure if a 6" lift would make a rear drive shaft mod necessary or not. On the rear end, if going 6" I would probably just get new springs but the idea of doing the shackle flip to get 4" and then a 2" lifted spring might be a nice combo.
I will post more finished photos just as soon as I get them developed!